Makassar and Around

Left: Sunset at Bira beach. Photo by I. Amerl

Traveling to Bira.

(By. Jessica Tarr/United Kingdom)

In my first few days in Sulawesi I had the opportunity to visit Bira. All I knew about the area was it had a beatiful white beach on the east coast of South Sulawesi, in an area renowned for its boat building trade. We arrived at night by car (which can be hired at the Malengkeri bus terminal -on the way to Goa- for approximately Rp. 150,000). Going at night it took around four hours. Generally the local drivers prefer travelling by day when they claim it's safer, though we experienced no trouble on the way. It has to be said that arriving at night always keeps the suspense of where you are until morning.

As we arrived around 1:30 AM, most of the town was asleep so it may be a good idea to call ahead and let them know you're coming. The people we woke up in our quest for accomodation were all very friendly and we soon found ourselves in a large wooden, stilten bungalow: most places in Bira offer traditional Buginese-Makassar style cottages.. Breakfast of tea or coffee and a banana pancake is usually included and most places also rent snorkles.

Woken by singing birds, we took a stroll to the beach some 50 meters away, geared up with masks and snorkels to see some of the coral and fish that I'd heard about. This tranquil, cove shaped beach surrounded by cliffs boasts the whitest powdery sand and is surprisingly clean. I was told that they have started up a project here where the youth in the area collect all the litter on the beach: definitely a refreshing idea!

Visibility for snorkeling is excellent here. The tourqoise tinted water is crystal clear and you can see a huge variety of fish and coral. Its worth swimming out to the coral wall where the coral wall drops abruptly: between Bira and the neighboring island of Selayar they say the water depth reaches over 1000 m! Before swimming out too far, it's advisable also to check how strong the current is, because it can be incredibly powerful. Snorkling with fins is definitely the easier option here - but make sure not to damage the coral in the process!

If you fancy checking out the collection of small islands visible from the beach, you can negotiate with a fisherman who'll give you a tour for around Rp. 60,000 for 2-3 hours on his fishing boat. If you arrange it with the captain of the boat beforehand, he'll more than likely stop off at some of the islands so that you can take a look around, or allow you to dive off the boat and do some snorkeling near the islands.

If snorkeling and swimming are not your thing, the there's a small forest nearby where I'm told you can see monkeys. I wasn't lucky enough to see any, just as well since I'm petrified of them. It makes a good walk anyhow! Food is available in the local cafes and restaurants, all no more than 50 m from the beach. I'd recommend the seafood here as it's fresh and good value for the money.

I think by far the most impressive aspect of the area however is its hospitality. If you are keen to learn a few words in their language, the locals will be happy to help you.